With this README file you should find a number of other files having to do with my minila + USB pc bd: 1) mlaUSBbom.txt This is a parts list that has my sources for the parts I used, and some pricing information. DK is Digi-Key. 2) mybdplc.GIF Drawing showing some parts and connector locations. 3) Six files with .grb extension. These are the gerber files for the pc bd. 4) One file with .drl extension. Drill file for pc bd. 5) minilausb38.fpc This is the FreePCB design file for my board. It has several corrections relative to the boards that I had made: a) I fixed the package for U7. b) I tied U5 pin 47 to Gnd. c) I added "keep out" areas to prevent the copper fill from creating extra small copper pieces, as pc bd houses do not like these. d) I fixed several places where the bottom copper fill could not reach gnd vias that were needed for the circuit. These connections were made with jumper wires on my first batch of pc boards. 6) mlaUSB3.net This is the pads format netlist that I used to lay out the pc bd, but has been edited since then to include the gnd connection to U5 pin 47. 7) mlaUSB.dsn This is the TinyCAD design file, which contains the captured schematic and was used to generate the netlist. 8) mlaUSBCsz.pdf C-sized pdf version of the combined schematic. "Printed" to pdf from TinyCAD. Part name for U7 is not quite correct, and U5-47 connection to Gnd is not shown as made. Aside from that, it should be pretty accurate. 9) minplc001.pdf Sketch showing the location of some components on my board. What I did: I captured the minila schematic and the USB adapter schematic using a free program called TinyCAD. Then I generated a pads format netlist, then used FreePCB to lay out a pc board. I tried to match the original layout as closely as possible, although FreePCB can't rotate a chip 45 degrees, so I had to lay things out a little differently to get a similar connection between the two big chips. I made five boards, of which I have only one, having sold the others. As far as I know, my board is very similar to the original one, but includes the parallel and USB interfaces, with jumpers to select which one is being used. Misc information: The minila design draws just over 500 mA when the clock is set to 100 MHz, so don't be surprised if you are trying to bring up a board and it draws a lot of current. Before the program the CPLD, the current is pretty low, about 30 mA, as I recall. If you are using the bridge rectifier, you will need to feed in about 7Volts DC to keep the 3.3 V regulator happy. Any more than that will increase the heat generated by the voltage regulator. If you remove the bridge rectifier, the minimum input voltage needed drops to about 5V DC. Of course, if you remove the full wave rectifier, you need to make sure the input voltage polarity is correct. The USB section is powered from the PC/USB bus connection. The minila is powered from an AC adapter. If you connect the USB adapter to a PC without the minila AC adapter plugged in, the USB interface signals will be feeding voltage into an unpowered minila circuit. I try to avoid this condition by always powering up the minila before I connect it to the PC, whether I am using the parallel port or USB interface. ALL OF THE ABOVE MATERIALS AND INFORMATION ARE OFFERED WITH NO GUARANTEES OF CORRECTNESS OR PROPER OPERATION. PLEASE CHECK OVER WHAT I DID BEFORE YOU TRY TO USE IT IN ANY WAY. I HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH THE DESIGN OF MINILA OR THE USB INTERFACE.